SEMO DayCruiser Kit, the Hull

The Hull.

Vitesse Cabin Cruiser with same hull as the Day Cruiser kit.

I did make my hull much the same as I did with my CB90, each main frame I got from the original plan, but since the stem frames was not included on the plan, I first did these in "pitza-box paper". After I got the shape I wanted, I did use these as templates for the real parts. The material I use for these is airo-plywood, 0.8 mm thick for the skin and 1.5 for the rest not curved parts, frames, deck, sideboards etc. For better surface, I did glue on 5*5 mm balsa-lists on the edge of each frame and on the underside of the deck.

Methods

I'm a beginner myself, so I'm still testing working methods. With my CB90 project I did build the hull upside-down. This worked very well for me, so I did the same with this project. I did some measurement on the original plan to make the stern-frame right, but after that I haven't really used that plan so much more. It was the 'starter' for this project, but the 'main-dish' is a mix of the original plan, old boat and outboard engine leaflets and alot made-up myself. For example I got many ideas from old Glastron & Johnson leaflets from '77 there I founded how I wanted my wind-shield to look like (GT150, out of order today), and in an old Johnson outboard engine leaflet I founded much of the rest. These ideas does not fit right off on this boat, so I will have to alter them slightly. More on this in next section (making the deck and wind-shield).

Tools

Materiel for this complete boat cost only some hundred SEK, but it is not easy without tools. However, the tools you reuse from project to project. My first advice, if you do not already have one, buy your own DREMEL tool. This is my most used tool of all. Except this I use ordinary hobby-knifes, files, wood-glue (water-resist..) and a set of different clothes-picks, map-pins and such to hold pieces on place while glueing. Also old medicine cans filled with lead bullets (from your local weapons store) is a must for holding things in place. Later on I have also bought a Aztek airbrush with compressor, but this you could consider in a later stage. Ordinary brushes also works fine, if you are careful and paint many thin layers.

Materials

Most parts are made of plywood (0.8 / 1.5 mm thick) and balsa. For the details on deck which I can't find or to expensive in a hobby-store, I use brass. For some lists which will hold up something or to easy to break, I have used 'ordinary' wood instead.

Engine

Before you start to add some glue, you should decide which kind of engine you will use. I did from start choose to have some kind of z-drive or outboard engine, so I do not need to think of the props-axle for an inboard engine. If you want to make your boat a cheap one, you should still consider this. Both z-drive and outboard engines costs much more than an simple 'good old inboard axle'. But,.. for me z-drive looks much cooler..

Images sofar

dayc-0602 -- 1 - Hull halfway ready. Frame 1 and 2 is different, but 3 to 7 is the same as the stern-frame except it has the middle part cut out. Plus this the 'stem-keel' part. Which does not need to be solid, I did it like this so I got four different 'rooms' in case it get flued with water. I will use a rather big battery and along with big engines, it will not flute water-filled without air-bags..

dayc-0601 -- 2 - Hull, top view. Note the map-needle's and cloth-picks. I use cloth-picks of both wood and plastics. Sometimes the wooden type holds <b>to</b> tight, then the plastics are better.

dayc-0603 -- 3 - Hull, done part. The lists on the bottom is just an extra touch, not really necessary. They was so easy to add, I couldn't resist. They in the middle is easy to add, but the edge-list was tricky to get straight in the stem. Skip this if you are uncertain.

dayc-0605 -- 4 - Hull, from stern. To build like this, on a moveable board, has been a big relief. Now I can work in front of the tv, in the garden, whatever. Good to not be dependent on building in the workshop (a corner of the bedroom, in my case..) Also good for photo sessions! First I bought a thick baseboard which I then screwed (not glued) a thin treetex board on. This way I can easily change in the future. The top board gets full of holes from the map-pins and lines and notes from pens, plus dry glue etc.

dayc-tpl02 -- 5 - The first template, frames. I did choose double scale, you can choose whatever as long as you use same scale for all templates.. As you can see on first picture above, I have added three more extra frames compared to the original plan. If not, the skin will hang 'loose' and most certanly deform in shape after a while. (Note

dayc-tpl01 -- 6 - The second template, 'bow-keel' and stand. The 'bow-keel' does not need to be solid, I did it like this to get four different airtight rooms in case my model gets flued with water. The stand is just an suggestion.

dayc-tpl03 -- 7 - The third template, skin parts. This is the only template which you should not use right off (see note also on picture 5 above). Depending on two things if you want to have edge-lists like I and the fact that it is hard to make your model <i>exactly</i> like mine.. I recomend that you cut out your skins about 1-2 centimeters bigger than this template and then try them on and trim them bit by bit until you get them right for <b>your</b> model. Bottom part should be extended 59 cm. No need to make the template that long...