step by step description on how it was done.
Frame 1 and 2 is different, but 3 to 7 is the same as the stern-frame except it has the middle part cut out. Plus this the "stem-keel" part. Which does not need to be solid, I did it like this so I got four different "rooms" in case it get fled with water. I will use a rather big battery and along with big engines, it will not flute water-filled without air-bags..
To build like this, on a moveable board, has been a big relief. Now I can work in front of the tv, in the garden, whatever. Good to not be dependent on building in the workshop (a corner of the bedroom, in my case..) Also good for photo sessions! First I bought a thick baseboard which I then screwed (not glued) a thin treetex board on. This way I can easily change in the future. The top board gets full of holes from the map-pins and lines and notes from pens, plus dry glue etc.
From right, the model I built at age around 12, in the middle the boat my son is building in 1½ scale and to the left, my model in double scale as it looked just before xmas 2000. My son David, is building "Vitesse" the cabin version.
Observe, still no holes for the z-drives. I will wait until first water-tests. In the instructions for the z-drives it sad that these should go just below the keel. Meaning the props axle should point or follow the keel line. I do not agree on this, and will check the boat in the water first, before I drill these holes. I want the complete propeller to be clear bellow the keel, so the blades makes water the complete turn. Why move water which is almost on the surface? Also, this should pull down air in the propeller stream? A experienced modeller maybe reads my wrong thinking here. Time will tell. I do not plan to compete with this boat. Just learning and having fun.
I thought and hoped to be done to boat show 2001 with also radio and engines, but I was delayed with Influenza in 4 weeks.